Lisbon: Tales of a Million Tiles and Timeless History
The rain broke and we set off to explore Lisbon. Fuelled by espresso and the Portuguese staple, pasteis de natas (egg custard tart, a local delicacy), we immersed ourselves in the busy streets bustling with people and full of history.
New and old blend not so seamlessly. Derelict and crumbling buildings stand next to the brand new. All with unique charm but some a little less loved, a little more forgotten. The walls are covered with a blend of graffiti and tiles. Both are obviously taken very seriously here.
Lisbon is a city of close to 3million and there must be at least 1.5million souvenir shops. Portugal was once a world-dominating force owning well over 70% of the “new world”. A country of explorers, traders and pioneers of travel by sea. Settling up shop in every corner of the world. The language is spoken by over 200million people worldwide. A complex blend of 4 dialects is spoken across Portugal, speaking to the diversity and worldly past. People of Portugal don’t have to travel anymore to meet people from around the world; travellers will happily come to them. A high of 19million people visited Portugal in 2019 and numbers are expected to exceed that as the world bounces back from the pandemic that rocked the world, leaving people like us itching to travel.
As we walk through the main streets, lined with retail and souvenir shops, street vendors sell toys and roasted chestnuts send smoke wafting through the air. Restaurants spill into the pedestrian-only streets with employees’ menus in hand, covered in photos of daiquiris, pasta and paella; all lacking a sense of authenticity. As we stroll, you cannot help but think about where all of the local Portuguese people are. Much like the rest of Portugal, Lisbon has become a major hub for European travellers, digital nomads, and retirees. I am here for that exact reason so I’m unsure why it caught me off guard. Tourists have taken over the local tram system, lining up in the 100s and waiting hours to pack shoulder-to-shoulder into the tiny trams cars that run through the hilly city. Walking tours around every corner, on every lookout, & in every language imaginable. I wonder if anyone is really listening. Tuk tuks wiz through the cobbled streets of the old towns, carrying happy passengers to many of the historical destinations around the city that they found in their research or tourist books.
When we explore new cities, we more or less just wander, and do our best to stay off the beaten path. In a world where you can’t ever really be lost, I like to just put the phone away and do my best to attempt to find that feeling. As we walked through the old town of Barrio Alto, fresh laundry was hanging on lines swaying in the wind outside every window, pigeons were flying in bunches in the tight streets, creating the old-world vibe that I was searching for. To no surprise, this was my favourite area that we discovered. We found a quaint little restaurant (the name escapes me) nestled into the tram tracks on yet another steep hill, there is truly no shortage. We settled into a decent bottle of white wine, a classic grilled sardine dish, and another local favourite of potatoes and chourico sausage (Portuguese smoked chorizo) topped with a fried egg. As we finished our wine, the sky opened up for another downpour and we set off again, a little less bothered by the storm.
After a siesta and a change of clothes, we regrouped and decided to go to a large market that we had passed through earlier in the day - Timeout Market. A massive 1000+ person dining hall with 30+ counter service restaurants and bars, serving classic Portuguese fare of octopus and potatoes and pork sandwiches, to Western favourites like sushi or doughnuts. This is not our usual place to go for a dinner out, but without a reservation, plus the sheer lack of not wanting to make a decision, we ended up at one of the most memorable dinners of the trip. Glasses of wine in hand, we found ourselves at a communal table elbow to elbow with strangers enjoying their culinary decisions. As we quickly found out, the food wasn’t the only diverse thing; we discovered, after a quick chat with our table, that there were 7 different countries represented. Canada, the Czech Republic, France, Germany, USA, Russia, and surprisingly, Portugal! Sitting across from us was a lovely older Portuguese couple on a date night, who immediately took an interest in chatting with us. A quick bite and a glass of wine turned into several bottles with our new friends, laughing and sharing stories through a mix of broken English, hand gestures and photos. One thing about travelling I particularly love: when the lack of speaking the same language doesn’t stop a good conversation, and only proves that we’re all not that different. As the night carried on, we vowed to keep in touch and said our goodbyes, with one last pasteis de natas for the road.
The reason people travel is different for everyone. I wonder sometimes if the idea of flying across the world in a tiny metal tube, travelling 1000s of miles across the oceans is lost on some people.
Some travel to seek the outer corners of the world suffering through hardship, malnourishment, sickness and physical triumphs as their badges. Some travel as a form of escapism from their lives, seeking the comforts of home and limiting surprises.
Everyone has boxes to check, some climb mountains exposed to the elements, and some buy souvenirs in the comfort of their hotel lobbies, yet we all seek the same feelings of the modern explorer: bringing stories home from a far away land.
- Lindsey
